Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House

Living part-time in New York, I’m lucky enough to be in a culinary center of the world. As such, some of the best culinary schools can be found within a short distance of both my office and apartment. The Institute of Culinary Education is one of them, currently on 23rd street (and moving to a larger location at the end of the year). I’m considering taking classes and as well as the idea of a professional program there and decided to sign up for an open house. I had previously visited at the beginning of the month and met with an admissions counselor and was afforded a tour and a great overview. The Open House seemed like another great way to gain insight into the school, staff, and curriculum.

The school has a rich history in the world of culinary education, especially in New York. As one of the “original” schools, it was started as Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School and grew over time. Upon his passing, the school was purchased by an entrepreneur with a love for cooking, Rick Smilow and has grown into the massive force it is today.

I arrived just before 6pm and headed up to the top floor for the open house. From the minute that the doors opened up, it was showtime. I was actually blown away. I was expecting a brief talk about the programs offered and then a discussion about admission requirements. What I walked into was an event production. After I passed the greeting table I was welcomed to a bar and offered a drink from a selection of beer and wine.

Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Entry Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Entry

Just after the bar followed an appetizer selection of meat, cheese, bread, fruit and crackers.

Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Appetizer Line Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Appetizers Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Appetizers

Guests (yes, this is how I felt) were seated in a larger room just off the main entrance at chairs facing, not a stage, but a demo kitchen with mirrors. I was pretty excited at this point and happily enjoyed my crackers, bread and various cheeses and cure meat.

The opening remarks provided for an overview of the school, the programs and allowed for some early Q&A with the guests addressing admissions or chefs. The overview was very informative.

First up was a demo for the dinner entree. We watched the preparation while we were served the finished product, duck, mango salsa and polenta. Not too shabby.

Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Culinary Lecture and Demo Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Culinary Lecture and Demo

After the culinary demo, we were the introduced to the pastry demo given by a former sniper turned pastry chef. Pana cotta with some foam and crystalized sugar adornments. Very tasty in deed.

Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Baking and Pastry Lecture and Demo Institute of Culinary Education (ICE) Open House Baking and Pastry Lecture and Demo As I said before, I was favorably impressed with the school overview. After reflecting on the evening and the event, the “New Yorkness” of the open house made sense. Everything is a hustle in the city and a good show is a requirement. That said, it demonstrates the serious approach to food and learning that ICE has and provides for glimpse of what you will be exposed to should you decide that it’s the school for you.

The school is growing tremendously as is evidenced by moving to a larger location as mentioned above. With 20,000 inquires and 700 students per year, it’s a powerhouse for the New York culinary scene and beyond. I’m glad I attended and appreciate the time spent with me as well as the numerous follow-ups.

Here are pictures from my prior visit with an admissions represenative:

Lab Rooms

Institute of Culinary Education Lab Institute of Culinary Education Lab with Class Institute of Culinary Education Lab with Class

Library and Chocolate ShowpiecesInstitute of Culinary Education Library with Chocolate Project Pieces

Lecture RoomInstitute of Culinary Education Lecture Room

 

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Jiro Dreams of Sushi

Food media has become more prevalent and as such chefs hold an interesting status in society in the US and Globally. The perception of the role has changed to those on the outside and to those who call it their job. Chefs in modern day media are idolized, elevated a million times higher than ever before. Those at the top of their game and recognized by others as figures to emulate, spend their careers perfecting their craft. Jiro Ono is a master of sushi and precision. He is a chef to idolize and is the subject of a biographic film from 2011, Jiro Dreams of Sushi, directed by David Gelb.

Jiro demonstrates that while some of the duties or views of a chef have changed, most have not.

  • The chef is boss.
  • The chef is responsible for everything that gets served.
  • Quality and the experience are of the utmost importance.
  • Excellence takes practice and discipline.
  • No matter how far you have come, you are only just beginning and just learning.

This film provides a glimpse into what is required to become a three-star Michelin rated restaurant which Jiro and his team have achieved at Sukiyabashi in Japan.

A meal at Sukiyabashi can cost about 30,000 Yen (around $300) and is fast, lasting about 15 minutes. Arguably the most expensive meal you’ll ever eat and yet his patrons say it’s worth it. They don’t serve appetizers, only sushi. They’ve mastered that.

According to food writer Masuhiro Yamamoto as stated in the film there are five attributes to a great chef:

  1. First, they take their work seriously and consistently perform at the highest level
  2. Second, they aspire to improve their skills
  3. Third is cleanliness. If the restaurant doesn’t feel clean the food won’t taste good.
  4. The fourth is impatience. They are better leaders than collaborators. They are stubborn and insist on having it their way.
  5. And finally, a great chef is passionate.

Jiro has all of these attributes. He is a perfectionist.

The film was fascinating to watch as I gained insight into this great chef. Each day starts with tasting the ingredients, making adjustments and ensuring everything is perfect for service. If the food is not up to par, it won’t be served. There are no shortcuts. He buys his fish from specialists, experts in the type of fish that they sell. The entire process of creating food is about process and repetition.

Jiro’s mind works on perfection all the time. He recounts that as his career evolved, he would literally make sushi in his dreams and wake up with new ideas. As the title implies, he literally dreamed of sushi. His dreams make him the best. He doesn’t care about money. He wants to make better sushi. He wants to make the best. That’s what he keeps striving for and undoubtedly what keeps him going. For Jiro, when nobody but you know something is not right, that is perfection, pride. being the best.

Jiro says, “In order to make delicious food, you must eat delicious food.” The quality of ingredients is important but you must be able to develop a palate to discren the good from the bad. “Without good taste you can’t make good food”. As he rose to prominence he educated his palate by eating a variety of foods, just as he does now. Could this be an excuse for me to eat out more?!

3 Michlen stars is no small feat.  To paraphrase Masuhiro Yamamoto in the film, it is said that for a restaurant to earn that many stars it is worth it to travel to that country just to eat at the restaurant. Jiro is always seeking perfection and I wonder if he’ll ever feel he attained it. Probably not. What’s harder to think about is that this film is about his sons and sushi and passing the torch as it is about him. The task and difficulty of living up to expectations are enormous.

The lessons observed for greatness can be applied to any profession. As I think about the hours of practice in the kitchen and the hours of learning outside of the kitchen, I can see how I’m still at the beginning of my learning with respect to cooking as well as other areas in life. I’m glad I was able to sit down and watch a biography about such an incredible life and would recommend it to anyone whether starting out with food or even those who are highly advanced knowing they have so much to learn.

 

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Cooking Fresh Food From The Union Square Farmers’ Market

Union Square Farmers' MarketI can’t keep using my tiny NY apartment kitchen as an excuse for not cooking. It’s not ideal, but it’s not the worst I’ve seen in the city either. One great thing about New York is that while most living quarters may be smaller than the rest of the world, just about everything else is bigger, this includes farmers’ markets such as the Union Square Farmers’ Market.

The selection can be overwhelming. I spent Monday meandering through the different stalls wondering what to pick up to cook for dinner. I was lucky enough to come across a stall where they were cooking some of their vegetables for people to taste. In New York you need hustle and showmanship and as a result they won my purchase of garlic, sweet peppers and purslane, an ingredient I was not familiar with.

Purslane

Aside from being exposed to new ingredients and supporting the local community, a key benefit to shopping local and at a farmers’ market is that you can talk to the farmers themselves and also learn about how they grow their crops.

Clean Food

At home I tested out cooking the purslane as I had seen demonstrated through a quick sauté in olive oil, along with garlic, onion and the peppers, a little salt and black pepper. The garlic from the farmers’ market is very different from that which you find in the supermarket. This one in particular was sweeter and had a more delicate flavor.Purslane, Peppers, Garlic

I was pretty happy with the result, a repeated this on Tuesday, cooking the purslane a bit longer to get a softer result.Cooked Purslane, Peppers, Garlic, Onion

Wednesday’s farmers’ market in Union Square allowed me to get a fresh zucchini and some cherry tomatoes.Fresh Zucchini and Cherry Tomatoes

I happily cooked these down in olive oil over low heat with some salt and pepper and garlic.

Fresh Cooking Zucchini and Cherry Tomatoes

IMG_5838

When cooked through I added this to some penne pasta for a late pasta primavera style (it’s summer) meal.

Pasta Primavera, Fresh Zucchini and Cherry Tomatoes

I feel bad that I used boxed pasta and hope that I can make some from scratch next time. I’m lucky to work so close to the farmers’ market and will make it a point to try out new ingredients as much as I can.

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Cupcake Class at Butter Lane, NYC

I find myself in New York City during the week for work. A change in Location offers new opportunities, experiences and places to take classes! After hearing co-workers rave, I decided to sign up for classes at Butter Lane Bakery in the East Village this week. I’m not a cupcake person, never jumped onto the craze and rarely walk to the East Village. That aside, I figured, “what the hell?”, and signed up for the Become a Baker class.

Butter Lane Entrance

Butter Lane Display

The class lasted two hours, and consisted of six students. I almost can’t remember when the last time was that I baked something, and with my tiny apartment kitchen (more on that in future posts), cooking has been a challenge in the city. The class was definitely fun, the perfect size and focused enough to show anyone the proper techniques to achieve success. Our instructor Gabby was knowledgeable and yet patient, ensuring everyone followed along at pace with all of us yielding great results. I was really surprised by how small the work area was compared to classes I’ve taken in the past.

Butter Lane Class Setup

Working in pairs, we created three different batters and accompanying frosting.

Butter Lane Cupcake Recipes

The class flew by. With so few ingredients, the results were definitely better than I expected, then again, the recipes weren’t of the health food kind, with plenty of butter and sugar added to the batters and more sugar with cream cheese for the frosting.

Butter Lane Scooped Batter

Butter Lane Baked Banana Cupcakes

Butter Lane Baked Cupcakes Three Recipes

Butter Lane Baker's Dozen Cupcake

Butter Lane Frosted Cupcakes

Needless to say, I couldn’t eat these all by myself. They were a hit in the office. I’m glad I claimed mine before I set them out in the kitchen. They were gone in a matter of moments.

Butter Lane Boxed Cupcakes From Class

 

 

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Sous Chef by Michael Gibney

Cooking is an exercise in kinetic awareness, economy of movement, master of the senses. You can smell when a sauce is scorched; you can hear when a fish is read to come off the plancha. You must trust these senses to help you through the night. Your whole body must remain active. No matter what recipes you know, no matter how much experience you have, each piece of fish in each pan presents a unique set of circumstances to which you must react, based on the sensory information at hand in the moment. You must take what you have before you and make something lovely out of it. And while it might be the same thing every day, it’s something new every second. (p. 118 Sous Chef: 24 Hours on the Line, Hardcover First Edition)

Michael Gibney, a Sous Chef in an undisclosed restaurant, presumably in the West Village of New York City has put out a superb and captivating debut novel. The book is described as a day in the life of a chef and true to its word encompasses 24 hours of life in the business. The focus is on the Sous Chef written in second-person narrative form.

Invigorated by additional time in my schedule I picked up this book from the library because of its title, not because I had heard about it previously. Books that I am familiar with are usually written about or are from the point of the chef, not the second in command.

With my interest piqued I turned it’s pages and quickly made my way through 24 hours on what could have been any Friday of a Michelin starred restaurant, and yet 24 hours of grinding and grueling work that are likely only topped by that of a doctor or solider. It was intriguing to read about hours of the day that a chef spends their time on beyond what most people thing about, the cooking. An evident lesson from this novel is that preparation and order are they keys to success in the kitchen and the day truly starts hours before the first dish is ordered. As an added bonus, the camaraderie and pecking order in the kitchen are not only clearly explained but diagrammed for the reader to clearly understand.

From the early hours of the morning to the wee hours of the next morning the book takes you through a roller-coaster of excitement, learning and understanding of what it’s like to be a Sous Chef and a member of a high-end kitchen. As I read, the career perspective that the book provides include what it takes to get to Sous Chef and ultimately what it might take to become Chef. The story told is about aspiration, love for the profession and reflections on why people become part of a kitchen, who it attracts and what it takes to survive.

As a glimpse into kitchen life, the book provided a backdrop for what I am not looking for. 18 plus hour days of back-breaking work away from loved ones in the pursuit of making others happy is a story often told in many professions but one that appears to be expected in the kitchen. That aside, the writing is excellent, the passion authentic and should I ever figure out what restaurant this is mostly based off of, I’m sure the food will be amazing.

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A Return To The Kitchen

It’s been almost three years since my last post. It doesn’t seem possible and yet here I am with a blog resembling many others with no updates. After launching my company Media Armor, Inc it became harder to cook, document with pictures and write about my cooking and learning. Media Armor was recently acquired by Nomi Technologies, Inc in January, freeing up a lot of my time. In May I married my amazing wife Elizabeth and as part of the acquisition, commute between New York where Nomi is located and Boston where my wife and I have been living.

Three years may have passed without writing, they have been three years of immense learning and growth in and out of the kitchen. With the stress and time constraints of running a business behind me, times are still busy, but I have plenty of time to read, learn, and most importantly, cook!

I continue to think about what’s next and how I can increase my skill at cooking. As part of that learning process I’m exploring school, working opportunities in the food industry and reading anything I can get my hands on, all of which I’ll share just as I did before.

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Dinner with Strangers

A common lesson taught to children at an early age is to not talk to strangers. Of course this rule is broken all the time and for good reason. We meet strangers in all aspects of our day. They become friends for life,  sometimes just for a moment in time and often they are in and out of your life in an instant. Usually the people you interact with fall into two categories, those with whom you develop a relationship such as your friends, family and co-workers and sometimes they are the people you speak with for just a little while such as a waiter, store clerk or passerby asking for directions. We feel most comfortable interacting with those that we know. That’s easy to understand.

What does this have to do with food you ask? Plenty. Last night I made the choice to spend an evening having dinner with seven strangers at Church (a restaurant, not a real one) though a meal organized by Grub With Us. I had willingly subjected myself to a potentially awkward social situation that falls between the fleeting encounter and long-term relationships and best of all I paid for it!

When I mentioned that I was signing up for this, most people that I spoke with thought I was crazy and said they would never do something like this themselves. The idea of sharing a meal with people I did not know is an interesting one. The possibility of starting an intellectual debate (read argument) about religion, politics, society or Casey Anthony just seem too scary for them and yet for me the unknown of how the evening would unfold from initial introductions to friendly good byes with stomachs full of delicious food was too good to pass up. What if we don’t get along they wondered? What if we have nothing in common? What if…? Well there wasn’t an “if”. We shared a love for food and socializing with others. It was fun.

The meal was shared family style, with each dish being described in decadent detail as it was placed on the table by the wait staff. The waitress had me at “lobster broth” when she described the ingredients for the mussels. Everything was so good. Each dish offered the opportunity for conversation about food and the sharing by passing around the dishes around the table seemed to break down all barriers of what could have been an awkward meal. We had become an instant family for the duration of the meal, sharing, savoring and serving seconds. The meal was pre-paid save for drinks thus removing the inevitable dispute of who owed what with someone leaving feeling cheated. Sharing a meal took away our individuality with respect to a food choice but allowed it to come out in other ways as part of conversation. It was a fascinating experience to watch and to be a part of. As someone commented at the table this idea would not have worked 10 years ago but it is one that will likely take off very quickly. I wish the Grub With Us team the best of luck.

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A funny change with food and life

I recently returned from a trip to Athens and Berlin with my family. It was an amazing vacation filled trips to museums, historical sites and of course a true pleasure for the palate. I was pleasantly surprised with the food in Germany in particular. Being so busy with work I didn’t do much research before the trip and was unaware of the variety of hearty and delicious food that I would enjoy on the trip. My food experiences are not the reason for this post believe it or not. Nope, the real inspiration for this post is something quite different and even more surprising.

It was 10 AM and we had just walked out of the hotel in Berlin to start the day’s activities. As we were walking, my phone started ringing. The call ended up being from my neighbor who was calling me urgently to tell me that there was a massive water leak in the building and they were looking for a way into my apartment to see if they could find the source there or on the roof. Long story short, they were able to get into my apartment, found that the source of the leak was a ruptured water heater and turned off the water in my unit. The leak had tripped the fire alarm and after an initial investigation, the fire department and electric company decided to turn of the power to the building until the walls and wiring dried out for safety reasons. This all made sense. Life would carry on.

As the week progressed and I had to deal with various insurance reps and members of my building a terrible realization went through my head. Yes the power was off and yes I was going to lose food in my refrigerator and freezer. The food loss is where my mind started to focus and then I realized I was going to lose 6 boxes of butter! “Oh no, not the butter!” I thought. Then I realized that I had also lost a batch of egg nog that I had been aging for a year and a half. How terrible. This seemed to be the worst outcome of all. I found this very odd and amusing. I don’t know if this is a sign of things to come, but I can say 2 years ago my thoughts would not have been on food. What a strange journey it has been.

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How To Give Someone The Experience Of Heaven On Earth

Ok, not what you are thinking…but chocolate chip cookies are enjoyable too and now even better when stuffed with Oreos. My stomach is thanking me as I’ve just experienced what might be the perfect cookie. Over the weekend as a break from work I started browsing blogs and reading through Twitter posts. I stumbled upon a post from the blog “How Sweet Eats” where I came across some amazing creations, Oreo stuffed chocolate chip cookies. Cassie and I marveled about how they looked and discussed how they would taste. I agreed that I would make them and send them as a care package. They might violate doctor’s orders while she’s in the hospital, but I believe the long-term emotional benefits are worth the risk of getting caught. I’m sure she’ll agree once they arrive. Also, these are shareable and that’s a good thing, helping to make quick friends.

I know, I know…I don’t always follow directions. This baking experiment is an example of one of those instances although I have a good reason for it. I simply won’t experiment with chocolate chip cookie recipes. I stick to my tried and true, the Original NESTLÉ® Toll House Cookie recipe. It can’t be beat, and while these resulted in more moist and less aesthetically pleasing cookies from those pictured on other blogs, they were great. The pictures speak for themselves and no further explanations are needed.

Oreos

Oreos...Genius Packaging

Oreos, Black Gold!

Oreos, Black Gold!

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough

Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough

Heaven Waiting

Heaven Waiting

Heaven Delivered

Heaven Delivered

The Perfect Cookie

The Perfect Cookie

Little Monsters

Little Monsters

Indulgence

Indulgence

I can vouch for the deliciousness of these amazing chocolate chip cookies. What kind of cook would I be if I didn’t taste one or two of these to ensure their outcome was satisfactory before sending them off? I’ll have to throw out the cautionary warning and say these cookies may have just forced me to start running again out of fear of needing to add another notch to the old belt as a result of making them too often and eating too many. Life is tough.

The original recipe can be found on Picky Palate. Enjoy!

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A Fork, Knife, Food and Being 30 Something

Food has amazing cultural significance. We’re fortunate enough to not only eat when we are hungry and need to in order to survive but as a way to bond with others. There are few things in life that are better than enjoying hours of conversation and laughter over a meal or sharing simple thoughts and observations. Food as it permeates our lives often evokes memories from the past or is a fixture for the new memories we create. Conversations can be had at length about recipes, favorite meals or opinions on restaurants and dining experiences.

It has been said that you can tell a lot about a person by the friends they have and the company they keep. I have great friends and company. On Wednesday night I was able to officially celebrate transitioning into my thirties with a small group of friends at a restaurant I have always wanted to go to, Rialto in Harvard Square. I had high expectations for the restaurant which were mostly met. The food was pretty solid, although the drinks left everyone wanting. It happened to be Restaurant Week in Boston so we were able to order off of that menu and sample appetizers, an entrée and dessert for 33 bucks a person.

The meal started with a notable first, a basket of bread without accompanying plates which apparently is the traditional Italian way. Needless to say it was gone quickly with a replacement basket following right behind.

Bread at Rialto

Bread at Rialto

I ordered an interesting raspberry flavored drink with rum and club soda. It essentially was an adult raspberry lime rickey. It was my least favorite item.

Raspberry Rum Drink

Raspberry Rum Drink

For a first course I ordered “Quercia cured ham… asparagus, salsa verde, Tarentaise Springbrook cheese”. This was great. The subtle textures and flavor were great. My appetite grew and I was ready to go to town.

Quercia cured ham

Quercia cured ham

Anyone who knows me knows that I am a steak person through and through. If steak is on the menu, it will be on my plate when dinner is served. For the entrée Steak was not an option on the menu and while lamb was, I actually  followed my nose and ordered “Smoked and roasted chicken… chorizo, chick peas, peppers.” Someone had just been served at a table I passed while walking in. I never order chicken, but this was a pleasant exception.

Smoked and roasted chicken

Smoked and roasted chicken

For dessert I ordered the ” Chocolate espresso torta… strawberries and cream”. It was a perfect ending to a great meal. Oddly enough my strawberries seem to have been replaced by two munchkins, but I couldn’t complain. They were good!

Chocolate espresso torta

Chocolate espresso torta

Reflecting on the night made me think about why I’ve enjoyed learning to cook. Sure meals do taste better, are healthier and I experience more variety, but there’s more to it. I enjoy creating experiences and the memories people take with them. Food is a vehicle for achieving that goal. The chefs at Rialto achieved it and I’m looking forward to going back.

A big thanks to my friends. This was a night I won’t forget.

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